A Video by Biker for Bikers Fact: Dealerships and mechanics can charge over $1,000 to put aftermarket handlebars on your Harley Davidson motorcycle. It is often times well over that amount, yet we know you can do this project yourself by watching this tutorial video. We teach you everything you will need to know and walk you through the entire process. In this tutorial video we install 16″ ape hanger handlebars & on a Harley Davidson Road King & new hand grips too. We wired the new bars internally for that clean look.
This #1 rated tutorial video will not only work for Harley Davidson Road King, but for an array of different, yet similar Harley models. Check out our and pick the right video to suite your project.
You will not find a more thorough aftermarket handlebar install tutorial video out there. It is a video by bikers for bikers. You can put new handlebars on your Harley right in your garage or on your patio right on the kickstand! There are no specialty tools or motorcycle lifts required and I will give you a list of items you will need and things to think about later in this article. FYI: Here is just one an example of one of our many completely Free tutorial videos, so you can bet our for purchase videos are that and more. And while you are there subscribe to our YouTube channel.
The video is high definition and it is if you can reach out and turn the wrenches with us. In this video we skip no steps and we have no doubt that after watching you can do this project with ease. Tons of bikers all over the world now have aftermarket handlebars on their Harley's because of this exact video. We are very detailed in our explanations and we want you to be successful. That is where we get our greatest satisfaction. There are many aftermarket handlebars for your Harley Davidson motorcycle in every shape, color, and size imaginable and the cost can vary just as much.
There are many companies making quick connect/install kits. Most of these simple kits are the same and come with a bundle of colored wires for extending wire harnesses, quick connectors, and shrink tube.
If you are going with taller style handlebars then the kit may also include an extended clutch cable and extended front brake lines. Many of these handlebar wiring kits have quick connect pins for extending the stock wire harnesses. You usually take off the stock plastic harley wire plugs, extend the wires with the quick kit colored wires, and then plug back into the stock plugs all without soldering. You can always snip the quick connectors that come with the wire kits and solder if you are more comfortable with that.
There are also kits with the OEM plugs on the end of the wire extensions to quickly hook up after soldering the attached extensions in. Either way, we have you covered in this video. We show you how to proceed depending on your particular kit, which aren't much different. We can tell you from experience that you will want to have a soldering iron and solder on hand.
Often times because of bulky plugs it may be necessary to solder a bit to make things clean and easy. Your extension kit may also require soldering. Don't worry, we make soldering so easy and show you exactly how to do it properly in this video. Most the time you can go as tall as 12″ aftermarket handlebars without having to replace wires, cables, and lines. I said, “most the time”, so you need to do your own research for your particular year and model before you begin your project. Tools & items needed: (affiliate links).
(standard sizes). (a pocked knife could be used instead). or just a standard lighter. Transmission oil (one quart)(replacement if you have to put extended clutch cable or hydraulic clutch lines on). DOT 4 brake fluid (if replacing with extended brake lines)(for bleeding lines).
Transmission cover gasket (If you have to put extended clutch cable or hydraulic lines on). As you can see, you don't need that much and can do this project right on the kickstand.
So what are you waiting for? Don't waste your money taking your Harley to a mechanic and spend over $1,000 for this project. Have the satisfaction of working on your Harley and completing your own projects.
By Bassem Girgis - January 21, 2016 This article applies to the Harley Davidson Touring (1995-2015). The Harley Davidson Touring is one of the most comfortable bikes on the market, but sometimes, comfort isn't as much fun.
If you're a fan of ape hanger handlebars, then you're a true biker. Ape hangers give you that stretched out feel, with the wind in your face and your arms held high. Of course there are various heights for the ape hangers, and what is good for you might not be good for the next person. This guide will cover the most popular ape hangers on our forums. Read on to choose the right ones for you. Ape Hanger Modifications. DIY Cost – $189-299 Professional Cost – $300-500 Skill Level – Easy; just simple hand tools are needed.
If you're a first time ape hanger rider, the 14' apes are the wisest decision for you. These apes are high enough to give you a flavor of the ape hanger world, but not too high that it will change the ride comfort and stability. These ape hangers are easier to install than anything bigger, because most of the time the brake and clutch lines are long enough, so you don't have to change them. These are big enough to change the look of your bagger, and the feel while riding, but not so extreme as to make it uncomfortable. So if you're ready to join the ape hanger club, you can certainly start here. Recommended for first time ape hanger riders. 16' Ape Hangers.
DIY Cost – $299-499 Professional Cost – $400-600 Skill Level – Moderate; this job requires the removal of various components, and the replacement of various lines. With the 16' ape hangers, you're right there with the big boys. Whether you're 5'7' or 6'3', these ape hangers will work for you. These will require you to replace both the brake and clutch lines, however.
That means disconnecting hydraulic lines and bleeding the system afterwards. The wiring should be long enough to allow the switch gear to reach on 16' tall bars.
Before you commit to 16' tall bars, be sure to try these on another bike first, and check your local laws. These ape hangers will change the way your bike rides. Lots of guys ride big bikes with 16' bars on them all the time, but be warned things will feel strange and you may feel uncomfortable in parking lot maneuvers. Recommended for riders who are used to ape hangers.
18' Ape Hangers. DIY Cost – $399-599 Professional Cost – $500-700 Skill Level – Moderate; this job requires the removal of various components and lines. The 18' ape hangers are just another level, with an extreme stretched out look that will become a real pain after a long time in the saddle. These are not recommended for riders that spend a lot of time on their bikes. After a while, your hands will fall asleep, as the blood is going back down to your arms.
Many local laws outlaw handlebars where your hands are above the level of your shoulders, which these likely are. Experienced riders claim you will get used to it after a while, but most say the 18' are not for everybody. This will take a little longer to get used to it, especially on the highway, as your body will work like a sailboat due to your arms being spread aside and as high as you can reach.
If you want to commit to the real deal apes, go for it and enjoy the outlaw look these will bring. Only recommended for riders who are ready for this height ape hanger and/or will be taking shorter rides. Related Discussions. HDForums.com. HDForums.com. HDForums.com Related Articles.
Harley Davidson Softail Ape Hanger Modifications Ape Hanger Modifications Are you looking to take your handlebars to the next level? This article applies to the Harley Davidson Softail. The Harley Davidson. Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Exterior Modification Exterior Modification Make your Harley look different than the rest.
This article applies to the Harley Davidson Dyna Glide. The Harley Davidson Dyna Glide is a. Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Handlebar Modifications Handlebar Modifications Take your Harley to the next level. This article applies to the Harley Davidson Dyna Glide. The aftermarket world of handlebars for the. For some people the higher the handlebars, the closer to God.
2657 The Nearly Extinct Indonesian Grease Monkey There is no better way to get yourself out in the breeze than a set of Ape Hangers, as Donna recently. Harley Davidson Softail Exterior Modifications Exterior Modifications Accessorize your Softail with these exterior mods. This article applies to the Harley Davidson Softail. The Harley Davidson Softail comes. Custom motorcycle handlebars aren't just a great way to show your individual style – they also help your bike fit you perfectly.
Check out what you need to know before you add this finishing touch to your. Related Articles. Harley Davidson Softail Ape Hanger Modifications Ape Hanger Modifications Are you looking to take your handlebars to the next level?
This article applies to the Harley Davidson Softail. The Harley Davidson. Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Exterior Modification Exterior Modification Make your Harley look different than the rest. This article applies to the Harley Davidson Dyna Glide. The Harley Davidson Dyna Glide is a. Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Handlebar Modifications Handlebar Modifications Take your Harley to the next level.
This article applies to the Harley Davidson Dyna Glide. The aftermarket world of handlebars for the. For some people the higher the handlebars, the closer to God. 2657 The Nearly Extinct Indonesian Grease Monkey There is no better way to get yourself out in the breeze than a set of Ape Hangers, as Donna recently. Harley Davidson Softail Exterior Modifications Exterior Modifications Accessorize your Softail with these exterior mods. This article applies to the Harley Davidson Softail. Sound effects for fl studio free download.
The Harley Davidson Softail comes. Custom motorcycle handlebars aren't just a great way to show your individual style – they also help your bike fit you perfectly. Check out what you need to know before you add this finishing touch to your. HD Forums How-Tos.
There are many relationships in the world that have stood the test of time. One current union has been that of ape hanger handlebars and baggers.
At first nobody thought it would work. Sure enough, it turned out to be the hippest thing since Crocs (if you’re into that sort of thing). And if you look at an ape-hanging bagger today, it just looks natural. LA Choppers, in Huntington Beach, California, realized the trend for apes on customized touring bikes long ago, and started offering ape hangers for baggers in 12-inch and 14-inch configurations ($179.95). And because extending your bar height usually means extending the accouterments attached to said bar (brake line, clutch cable, and throttle/idle cables if you’re still running the push-pull style cables), LA Choppers also released its own line of Build Kits ($234.95-$409.95) for more peace of mind, which was an immediate hit. So much so that the company has surpassed the 10,000 sales mark of its apehanger build kits. Kits are available in stock lengths all the way to the really custom 20-inch-high configurations.
Each kit includes the correct length clutch cable, ABS brake kit with chrome fittings and banjos with copper crush washers, stainless steel throttle/idle cables and brake lines in either a clear coated or black exterior, which protects components from abrasion. Basically, you get everything needed to make installation a breeze. With all this cable and brake line extending going on, you can’t forget about extending the switch wiring. Guerrilla Cables took on the handlebar wiring game a few years ago and make extending the switch wiring when upgrading to apes a lot simpler. The Riverside, California, company applies the old adage, “work smarter, not harder,” offering a no-fuss Deluxe wiring extension kit ($52.95) for Harley-Davidson Touring models. Each Guerrilla kit includes 24 inches of color-matched wiring, connecting pins, shrink tubing, and a wiring schematic built into the label that is unique to each Harley-Davidson family member. Bye-bye, intimidating wiring diagrams!
![Ape Ape](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123758571/468423875.jpg)
We stopped by Mihali Cycles in Riverside, a full-service Harley and custom bike shop that can handle any task thrown its way. Mihali’s had a 2006 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Classic begging for taller bars. We met Jose Alfaro and Armando Alfaro (yep, they’re brothers) for a little demonstration on how Guerrilla Cables extends the switch wiring when upgrading to ape hangers. Here is a look at all components installed on the Electra Glide Ultra Classic: 14-inch chrome apes from LA Choppers along with stainless braided brake line for ABS, clutch cable, throttle/idle cables, and of course, Guerrilla Cables’ Deluxe Bagger Wiring Extension Kit.2. The Electra Glide was rolled into the shop and the stock bar configuration needed to go. The stock handlebar switches and hand controls were removed from both sides of the bar. Next, the stock ignition switch was removed to gain access to the bar’s top riser clamps.
The ignition switch was replaced with this handy dandy JIMS Ignition Switch Housing Alignment tool, which aligns the ignition switch housing as the retaining screws are being torqued, giving the ignition switch knob the alignment it needs to help extend the life of the ignition switch housing. The factory ignition switch panel was then removed to gain access to the stock handlebar clamps. The outer fairing was also removed to access the switch wiring Deutsch connectors that would need to be extended with the Guerrilla Cables wiring extensions.
Both the right and left side switch wires were unplugged from the Deutsch connectors. Because the factory wiring isn’t run internally in the handlebar, removal of the switch wiring is less involved than installation since we’ll be internally wiring the LA Choppers apes.
The stock wiring will be extended with Guerrilla’s wires, soldered, and re-pinned, ready to be run internally into the new LA Choppers ape hanger. After removing the stock handlebar we moved over to the soldering table. Note: a handy tool for soldering is this magnetized metal base with two alligator clips attached, which frees up your hands for mating the solder with the wires simultaneously. We cut the pins off the stock wiring, soldered each color-coded wire to the stock wiring, and used the provided shrink tube to secure the connections.
The new wires will be cut and pinned near final installation for the most accurate fit. Starting at the top of the bar—where the switches will be remounted—we ran the extended wiring through LA’s bar down to the base. The LA Choppers bar is already drilled for internally wiring the switches. We used an old throttle cable and some electrical tape to run the wires, which worked like a champ. With the wiring fished through the bars, we were almost ready to install them on the bike, but first we wanted to hook up the new stainless clutch cable to the ball and ramp assembly.
And of course, we needed to route the new throttle/idle cables from the throttle body up to the hand controls. Then the new stainless braided brake cable was hooked up to the dual calipers up front and routed to where the brake lever will be located.
With the clutch cable, throttle/idle cables, and brake line routed where they needed to be, the LA Choppers handlebar was mounted to the bike. We used a new one-piece top clamp instead of the factory two-piece clamps. This just adds a little bit more stability to the handlebar assembly. You can pick up the top clamp at any Harley-Davidson parts dealer.
Before tightening the top clamp down, the rider was asked to sit on the bike so we could fine-tune the handlebar positioning to his specs. Once the desired height and pullback was achieved, the top clamp was tightened down to secure the new bar in place. The owner had already upgraded to new grips from the Harley P&A; Catalog so they were reused.
Since the switch housings were already routed through the bar and left dangling until final installation, we secured the right side grip in place after attaching the throttle/idle cable ferrules into the grip. We ran the wires still wrapped in electrical tape to the new switch locations in order to determine the most accurate length. Once that was determined on both sides, the extended wires were cut to length, pinned, and wrapped in heat shrink. The wires were then plugged back into their respective Deutsch connectors. Be sure to note which wires go where, otherwise you’ll lose your mind.
With the bars hooked up and the wiring dialed in, it was time to install the stainless braided brake line to the master cylinder. Using the provided crush washers on both sides of the banjo, the brake line was hooked up. The master cylinder was filled with DOT 4 fluid. Note: This stuff is very messy. Be sure to have your painted items covered because it could potentially damage the paint. Next, the brakes were bled with a MAC Tools brake bleeder. Lastly, the new clutch cable was hooked up to the factory lever and the last bits and pieces were buttoned up to complete installation.
Notice the stock bars up top. Sure they worked but the owner wanted to recline a bit more while tearing up the asphalt. Now, check out LA Choppers’ 14-inch apes on the Electra Glide.
The owner loves the way they give him that “in the wind” feeling when he rides.
Best Answer: There is no 'standard' answer for this. You will have to mount the bars and then take measurements using string to simulate the cables and brake line.
You WILL also HAVE to extend the wires for the handle bar controls!!!!.I.HOPE.you want them routed internally!!!!externally routed and zip tied to the bars looks like $hlT.take the time and do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again.this is NOT a job for the average person if you don't know what you are doing, and by your question here, it's obvious you don't.extending the wiring REQUIRES.GOOD soldering skills and a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.AND.FACTORY ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS MANUAL. That will show you the procedures to remove the tank and wiring info needed. You will also need to know the PROPER angle for the throttle cable adjusters, for apes, 90 degrees USUALLY work best. You will also need the proper angles for the brake line banjo fittings and the master cylinder and caliper.
You will also need the PROPER measurements for the clutch cable to determine where the cable adjuster needs to be located. Like I said, this is NOT a job for the novice!!!!!.IF you want it done right and to look good!!!! ALSO!!!.if you are installing 16' apes.you will also need to replace the factory rubber riser bushings with POLYURETHANE bushings to keep the bars from flexing the bushings and rocking back and forth.I recommend GOODEN TIGHT bushing kit. ALSO.Lil Thimper below said 'good electrical tape'.BULL$hlT.NEVER, NEVER, NEVER.use electrical tape!!!!.you use SHRINK TUBE!!!!.
Lil Thumper claims he builds 'harley chops'.if he wires his bikes up with tape.I feel sorry for anyone who has had him work on their bike!!!! Good answers above, but you will also need to extend the controls wiring as well, you can also send the wires thru the inside of the bars with a piece of string, all this work is very tedious, you want to have wiring experience, you don't want to loose any parts, watch those throttle cable end anchors, they are hard to find if dropped, you should also have a volt meter on hand to test every thing you do. And good electrical tape!!! ALSO I'm a woman, and I build old-school bikes. My paint cost more than your bike!!!. Tell us some more. Upload in Progress.
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Well I am about to get started (in 2 weeks) on my installation of Licks 12 inch Super Narrow ape hangers. I should be getting them this week, so I want to get started on picking up some tools, oils and anything else I will need to ensure the install goes as smooth as possible.
![Installing Installing](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123758571/945247065.jpg)
I have a buddy who is going to help tear it down and put it back together. I have already started getting familiar with tearing down the handlebars, grips and controls. I have also started reading the sections in the service manual about clutches, bars, throttle cables and brakes. Measuring the cables: I am plan on measuring the cables after putting the bars in the position that I will be riding. Is there a certain way I should go about measuring the extra lengths I will need? I plan on using a regular measuring tape (the kind you measure your waste with).
I don't want the cables to come out too far from the forks. Supplies: What supplies, tools and oils will i need for this particular project? Here is a short list of what I have come up with from my reading: 1.
Brake Fluid (The manual says DOT 5 Silicon Hydralic Brake Fluid) Any particular brand? Super Oil for throttle line (The manual says to use PN 94968-85TV) Any non-HD brand that is just as good or better?
Cardboard insert for brake lever. Fishing line for internal wiring / Tie Wire. A lot of RAGS!! Mini Hooks 9.
Primary Fluid Removal Questions: 1. Clutch cable - Is the clutch cable a 2 piece or 1 piece cable?
I am confused on whether the lower clutch cable and upper clutch cable disconnect. This is my first attempt at something this big. Most of the time I take it to an Indy and wham bam pay the man. But this time I decided to do it myself.
I am going to film the process just like bdoor67 did on his Nightster project. If this goes well, then there are a few other things I want to try to do myself. Anyhow, any help would be much appreciated. E00i3 (Eddie) 03 Black Sportster 883-1200 Website: web.mac.com/e00i3/Harley-Davidson YouTube - FRSTHD's Channel.
Good choice on doing this yourself. I did the same thing to my '03 sporty, didn't really know what I was doing, and it all worked out great, so first of all, don't worry, you'll be just fine. Measuring cables: after installing the new bars, take the existing cable and route it the way you want, then measure from the end of that cable housing to where it mounts in the switch housing, routing the measuring tape as you plan on having the cable installed. Your measurement will be the amount that you need to order in extra length. A cable a half inch too short will be a way huger problem than one that is a bit long. Brand doesn't matter, just make sure it's dot5 2.
Instead of super oil, look into a aerosol can lube with applicator that squirts the lube down the cable, or check this out: 3. I did not buy this kit, and did not need it. If you think you might need it, buy it but don't open it. If you can finish the job without it, take it back.
You won't need any extra stuff unless you lose something. I used tie wire (like for tying rebar) to fish the lines through cause you can push it. If you're going to use fishing line, make sure to get a little weight to attach to the end - drop weight into bar, retrieve out the other hole. This works well. Always good to have 8. I'd buy a kit of hooks - something like this: It will make life easier when dealing with the internal wiring. You'll need a t27 torx bit.
Ape Hanger Install Kit
Many kits have t25 and t30 but no 27. The t25 will also be needed, on the switch housings i believe. T27 for derby cover. Don't use the t25 here it'll bugger up your bolts. I use a magnetic parts tray - nice to keep all your bolts etc.
Remember the little brass ferrules on the ends of the throttle/idle cable AREN'T magnetic, so don't just toss 'em in the tray! (not that I know from experience or anything.) 11.
![Kit Kit](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123758571/259588952.jpg)
I can't remember if you have to drain the primary fluid in order to change the clutch cable.I don't think you do, but buy a quart anyways. The clutch cable is one piece. The outer cover is 2 pieces that screw together at the adjuster so you can adjust it properly. Follow the service manual instructions for the clutch cable removal and install - it looks a bit intimidating at first, but it's not hard.
There we go, i think that's it. You'll be glad you did this yourself.